Showing posts with label of. Show all posts
Showing posts with label of. Show all posts
Saturday, February 22, 2014
An Explanation of Router Tables
Is It Hard?
Many people think adding decorative details is hard and they avoid it altogether. With a router saw, though, it is easier than it looks. All you have to be able to do is guide the wood and you will be a master of the router table. Router table plans are a good thing to have as they will show what each bit can do. All you have to do is find the decorative detail you want on the plan and then find the corresponding tip. It really is quite simple. You have to understand the bits, though.
A Bit About Bits
The ability for a router to add notches and edging patterns is all determined by the bit. The edge of bits are what create beveling or straight edges or deep notches. Dovetail bits are used to create fittings for drawers. There are also other slot cutter and finger joint bits that help to do different things. Specialty bits can be used for a number of projects. They can be used for making special cuts and details. One thing to know about specialty bits is that they make more cuts with one pass than a typical bit. There are even miniature bits for use with small projects and fine details.
Getting the Right Table
Router tables come in different styles to allow for more or less room, depending on your needs. The typical table will be about the same size as a table saw. You can get them smaller or bigger. You can also adjust the height to make it more suitable for your needs.
More About Plans
Router plans will not just show you what a bit can do. They will also show you how to hold the wood to get different designs. The combination of bit and wood angle will create an array of designs and decoration. You can use the plans to put together an amazing design project.
Find Great Woodworking Plans Here!
A Touch of Patience is Required
If there is one thing I dislike reading in blogs it is the obligatory "Wow, seems I havent written anything here in a while, I will have to remedy that." post. In my experience that means one more post will pop up in my reader, followed by another six month (or longer) lapse.
Read More..
Ive taken sabbaticals from writing here as frequently as possible before. Mostly for not great reasons. This time around I am happy to relate that it is because we have been spending time moving into a new home we purchased on the north side of La Crosse.
Better yet, this house has a sizable garage that will become the home for a new shop/studio space. Im out of the tin shed and into a real structure.
The house is around 80% unpacked and set around. The studio is about 65-70% set up. When it hits a more complete number I promise a new shop tour. The biggest hamper is we have yet to arrange an Internet hookup at the house, leaving me to resort to our mobile phones and coffee houses for my data needs.
Needless to say nearly everything in our lives has taken a backseat to this endeavor, but I should be able to spend some time making shavings by early July.
I have still been thinking about and planning posts this whole while. The notes app on my phone is chocked full of them an Ill be getting some of those out soon.
Until then the management would like to thank you for your patience while this area is under construction.
Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf.
Friday, February 21, 2014
The Art of Tile Mosaics
Have you ever tried creating mosaic designs over mirrors or small tabletops? With several ceramic tiles and grout, you can already create beautiful designs. You can also use tile mosaics in concrete, glass, and metal.
Before you start any mosaic project, you should get all the things you need so that they are within easy reach. Here are the things you’ll need – acrylic sheets, palette knives, tile grout, grout brushes, soft rugs, gloves, sponges, newspaper, plastic bags, pencils, notebook papers, hammer, safety glasses, and pottery chips or tiles.
Using colored markers or pencils, draw the design on a paper. Get the appropriate tile for your drawing. Make sure that you have all the colors you need for a particular project. Carefully lay out the tiles over your drawing. This is one choice to ensure that the tile pieces are complete. Remove the tiles when you’re satisfied with the results. Put acrylic over the drawing.
Using your palette knife, put a small amount of adhesive on the tile’s backside and place it correctly on the drawing. Keep the spaces in between tiles at about 1/8 inch. Leave the mosaic to try.
Mix the grout. Make sure that the grout’s color is much darker than the tiles. Avoid purchasing grout of the same color as the tiles. When the tiles have dried, you can now apply the grout on the spaces. The grout should be leveled with the tile’s height.
After applying the grout, get a damp sponge. Wipe the surface of the mosaic using the damp sponge. Make sure that all the excess grout is removed. Do this immediately after applying the grout; don’t wait until it cures. If you’re working with mirrors, clean the mirror at once to prevent the grout from sticking to other parts of the mirror.
The grout will cure as days pass by. You can polish the tiles using a damp cloth. If you’ve made small designs, you can use it in coaster and trivet but stick felt pads first.
In most mosaic works, the tiles are square-shaped. You can also try using other shapes of tiles. If you have big ceramic tiles, you can put it inside a plastic bag and smack it using a hammer. However, if you have nippers at home, you can also cut the tiles to your desired shape. When cutting tiles, wear your goggle or any eye protector to ensure eye safety.
Whenever you’re doing a mosaic project, don’t forget to wear protective gloves. Some tiles have shard edges which can slice your fingers. The gloves will also protect your skin when you’re applying the grout.
When you’re purchasing the mosaic materials, make a list of everything so that you will not forget anything. This will save you time and money. Get latex grout because it does not shrink and spreads well.
Tile mosaics are not as expensive as you think. You can use excess tiles available at home if you want to create an inexpensive mosaic. Start with small mosaics in mirrors or in your tabletops. Once you’ve mastered the procedure, you can now try more complicated projects. Later on, you might even want to try wall or floor mosaic. With this art, there are endless opportunities to show your creativity and imagination.
Follow the procedure above and in no time, you will see the end product.
Read More..
Before you start any mosaic project, you should get all the things you need so that they are within easy reach. Here are the things you’ll need – acrylic sheets, palette knives, tile grout, grout brushes, soft rugs, gloves, sponges, newspaper, plastic bags, pencils, notebook papers, hammer, safety glasses, and pottery chips or tiles.
Using colored markers or pencils, draw the design on a paper. Get the appropriate tile for your drawing. Make sure that you have all the colors you need for a particular project. Carefully lay out the tiles over your drawing. This is one choice to ensure that the tile pieces are complete. Remove the tiles when you’re satisfied with the results. Put acrylic over the drawing.
Using your palette knife, put a small amount of adhesive on the tile’s backside and place it correctly on the drawing. Keep the spaces in between tiles at about 1/8 inch. Leave the mosaic to try.
Mix the grout. Make sure that the grout’s color is much darker than the tiles. Avoid purchasing grout of the same color as the tiles. When the tiles have dried, you can now apply the grout on the spaces. The grout should be leveled with the tile’s height.
After applying the grout, get a damp sponge. Wipe the surface of the mosaic using the damp sponge. Make sure that all the excess grout is removed. Do this immediately after applying the grout; don’t wait until it cures. If you’re working with mirrors, clean the mirror at once to prevent the grout from sticking to other parts of the mirror.
The grout will cure as days pass by. You can polish the tiles using a damp cloth. If you’ve made small designs, you can use it in coaster and trivet but stick felt pads first.
In most mosaic works, the tiles are square-shaped. You can also try using other shapes of tiles. If you have big ceramic tiles, you can put it inside a plastic bag and smack it using a hammer. However, if you have nippers at home, you can also cut the tiles to your desired shape. When cutting tiles, wear your goggle or any eye protector to ensure eye safety.
Whenever you’re doing a mosaic project, don’t forget to wear protective gloves. Some tiles have shard edges which can slice your fingers. The gloves will also protect your skin when you’re applying the grout.
When you’re purchasing the mosaic materials, make a list of everything so that you will not forget anything. This will save you time and money. Get latex grout because it does not shrink and spreads well.
Tile mosaics are not as expensive as you think. You can use excess tiles available at home if you want to create an inexpensive mosaic. Start with small mosaics in mirrors or in your tabletops. Once you’ve mastered the procedure, you can now try more complicated projects. Later on, you might even want to try wall or floor mosaic. With this art, there are endless opportunities to show your creativity and imagination.
Follow the procedure above and in no time, you will see the end product.
Thursday, February 20, 2014
The Versatility Of The Art Of Stenciling
When it comes to home improvement, fabric designing, and the likes, stenciling is something that you should consider. As an arts and crafts technique, this has come into vogue. The more popular that it has become because of the numerous television shows that feature it these days. Overall, it is really fun and productive to do this. Much more, anybody can do this without any hassle at all.
Stenciling is a method that requires patience and of course, practice. But then again, you dont have to panic even if you are still a beginner. There are several types of materials that you can actually put to use. Online stores as well as the specialty arts and crafts shops have them available. Nevertheless, choosing your materials is not that daunting. If you are all set to do stenciling, then, now is the perfect time to learn more about it. Buckle up and read on so you can start your project in no time!
Stenciling for Your Project
The stencil can actually be placed on almost any type of object. You can do stenciling on a cloth, a glass, or on the walls of your home. Of course, different objects require different materials too. The same thing goes with the kind of paint that you need to use. There are stencil designs that you may choose from but it doesnt mean that you will restrain your own imagination. There is no limit when it comes to the use of your own sense of creativity. You can create any style and design that you wish to. In fact, stenciling also allows you to transfer your design towards another form of media. As a result, the ink will move it to your chosen media so that the design can be replicated onto the other object placed underneath. The basic paints to use for your project are the fabric paints and acrylic paints.
Transferring your stencil design onto a glass may prove to be a bit complicated. There are usually a few kinds of paints or inks that suit the glass. Therefore, be sure to choose the appropriate one because you cant wash off any ink or paint from the glass material should you make the wrong choice.
Meanwhile, stenciling on any rough fabric is another challenge. If you plan to put a stencil onto your jacket, you should make use of the special stencil material and jacket fabric. Also, be certain that you flatten the jacket. As a tip, it is best to hand draw some smaller edges of your stencil design so as to achieve the emphasis that you are yearning for.
When it comes to home decorating, stenciling is another thing to consider. Childrens bedrooms and playrooms are best designed by using this technique. You can stencil their names on the headboards of their beds or create a couple of designs on the walls. Your home walls will be turned into a wallpaper-looking design if only you will apply the same technique. Mix and match the colors of your choice and let a different feel of your abode surface through this work of art.
Stencil lets you create the most wonderful designs that you want. In fact, you can alchoices experiment depending on your mood or the season. This activity is also fun to do especially when you have your other family members involved in this work of art.
Read More..
Stenciling is a method that requires patience and of course, practice. But then again, you dont have to panic even if you are still a beginner. There are several types of materials that you can actually put to use. Online stores as well as the specialty arts and crafts shops have them available. Nevertheless, choosing your materials is not that daunting. If you are all set to do stenciling, then, now is the perfect time to learn more about it. Buckle up and read on so you can start your project in no time!
Stenciling for Your Project
The stencil can actually be placed on almost any type of object. You can do stenciling on a cloth, a glass, or on the walls of your home. Of course, different objects require different materials too. The same thing goes with the kind of paint that you need to use. There are stencil designs that you may choose from but it doesnt mean that you will restrain your own imagination. There is no limit when it comes to the use of your own sense of creativity. You can create any style and design that you wish to. In fact, stenciling also allows you to transfer your design towards another form of media. As a result, the ink will move it to your chosen media so that the design can be replicated onto the other object placed underneath. The basic paints to use for your project are the fabric paints and acrylic paints.
Transferring your stencil design onto a glass may prove to be a bit complicated. There are usually a few kinds of paints or inks that suit the glass. Therefore, be sure to choose the appropriate one because you cant wash off any ink or paint from the glass material should you make the wrong choice.
Meanwhile, stenciling on any rough fabric is another challenge. If you plan to put a stencil onto your jacket, you should make use of the special stencil material and jacket fabric. Also, be certain that you flatten the jacket. As a tip, it is best to hand draw some smaller edges of your stencil design so as to achieve the emphasis that you are yearning for.
When it comes to home decorating, stenciling is another thing to consider. Childrens bedrooms and playrooms are best designed by using this technique. You can stencil their names on the headboards of their beds or create a couple of designs on the walls. Your home walls will be turned into a wallpaper-looking design if only you will apply the same technique. Mix and match the colors of your choice and let a different feel of your abode surface through this work of art.
Stencil lets you create the most wonderful designs that you want. In fact, you can alchoices experiment depending on your mood or the season. This activity is also fun to do especially when you have your other family members involved in this work of art.
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
Computer Desk From 1 Sheet of Plywood
This attractive and functional computer desk is built using only one sheet of plywood and 14 cuts which makes it an easy and affordable desk that can be built with a few tools.
The desk provides ample space for your computer and accessories as well as storage space for books, paper and other items youll want to have handy while working on your computer. All this from just a single sheet of plywood!
Dimensions
48"W x 33 1/2"H x 23 15/16"D
What Youll Need
Materials
- (1) 4 x 8 Sheet of 3/4" Plywood (or 4 sheets of 2 x 4 3/4" Plywood)
- (50) of Preglued Veneer Edgebanding
- (4) T-Nut Cabinet/Furniture Levelers
(optional but recommended)
- (61) Kreg SML-C125-100 1-1/4-Inch 8-Coarse Maxi-Loc Pocket Screws
- (3) 3/4" Corner Braces
- (6) 1/2" flat head wood screws
- (6) 1/4" Shelf Pins
- Wood Glue
- 220 and 120 grit sandpaper
- Painting and/or finishing supplies
Tools
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
- Drill
- Circular Saw with Guide, Track Saw or Table Saw for cutting plywood.
- Miter box or power miter saw
- Kreg KHC-90DCC 90-degree Corner Clamp
(highly recommended)
- Pegboard and 1/4" bit or Shelf Pin Drilling Jig
- Square
- Measuring Tape
- Pencil
- Sanding block
- Assorted painting and/or finishing tools
Make sure you understand how to use all the tools properly and follow all safety precautions.
Cut-List
Please note that if making the desk out of 4 sheets of 2 x 4 plywood that some of the dimensions will be slightly different. Quarter sheet dimensions are in parenthesis when they differ.
- (1) 48" x 23-15/16" Desk Top (48" x 24" one whole quarter sheet)
- (2) 26-1/8" x 23-15/16" Sides (24" x 26-1/4")
- (1) 46-1/2" x 12" Apron (46-1/2" x 12-1/4")
- (2) 46-1/2" x 1-11/16" Front (46-1/2" x 1-1/2")
- (1) 48" x 10" Shelf
- (1) 21-5/8" x 12" Storage Side
- (2) 21-5/8" x 11-7/8" Storage Bottom and Storage Shelf
- (2)10" x 5-7/8" Shelf Sides (10" x 5-15/16")
- (1) 10" x 11-7/8" Paper Tray (11.5" x 10")
- (4) 1-3/8" x 5-7/8" Paper Tray Supports (2 will be 7/8" x 5-7/8")
Cut Plan
You can either cut the desk out of one full 4 x 8 sheet of plywood or 4 2 x 4 quarter sheets of plywood. If youre using quarter sheets Id recommend the formaldehyde free PureBond 3/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood which can be shipped directly to your home from HomeDepot.com and is eligible for free shipping.For either full or quarter sheets the cut plans assume a maximum kerf (cut width) of 1/8" so its important to use a thin kerf saw blade. The Freud Ultimate Plywood Saw Blade is a good choice for a thin kerf blade that will minimize tearout and splintering when cutting plywood.
Full Sheet
If using a full sheet of plywood, break down the sheet into three smaller sections by making the 2 cross cuts highlighted in red. First make the 48" cut, followed by the 26-1/8" cut. You can also break down the three sections further. The 48" and 26-1/8" section can be cut exactly in half (23-15/16 accounting for the 1/8" kerf) but the last section is not exactly in half (24")
Quarter Sheet
You save a little bit of money by buying one full sheet but it might be more convenient to purchase 4 quarter sheets instead. The smaller sheets are easier to transport and you can even have them delivered to you for free. If youre picking up the plywood you could have the store make some convenience cuts for you but the quality and accuracy of the cuts will depend greatly on the condition of the blade and how good the person operating the panel saw is at making accurate cuts. These convenience cuts are not guaranteed to be accurate.
General Instructions
Its important to know how to use all your tools and follow all the safety recommendations. This project consists of simple cuts but its important to make sure to measure and cut each piece carefully. Square cuts in the plywood will make for a stronger desk. Its not necessary to glue the desk together as the pocket screws will provide sufficient strength and allow you to disassemble the desk at a later point if necessary. You will need to cut and assemble the desk first, then it is highly recommended to break it down again for finishing.
Step 1
Cut out the Desk Top, Sides, Storage Side, Storage Shelf, Storage Bottom, Apron and Front. Apply veneer edgebanding to all edges of the Desk Top, the 2 long edges of each Side and the front edges of the Storage Shelf, Bottom and Side.
Decide which side youd like the storage to be on, the left or right, then choose that Side piece and the Storage side and drill a series of holes part way into the insides of the plywood for the shelf pins using either a piece of peg board or a shelf pin jig.
Step 2
Arrange the desk top and legs on the floor with the good faces facing out. Drill 5 pocket holes on the inside tops of each leg. The first hole towards the front should be about 1" in while the one towards the back should be about 1/2" in to accommodate the front strip and modesty panel (apron).
Align and secure each leg to the bottom of the desk top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Make sure the sides are attached square to the top. Using the right angle clamp helps a lot.
Step 3
Attach the front strip flush to the front of the desk using 4 pocket holes with 1-1/4" screws on the back to attach to the sides and 3 3/4" corner braces with 1/2" flat head wood screws to attach to the top as shown below.
Step 4
Drill holes for pocket screws in the Storage Side and Apron (modesty panel) as shown. There is also a pocket hole going from the inside of the Storage Side into the Front which is not visible. First attach the Storage Side. Use the Storage Bottom as a guide to determine how far away it needs to be from the Side of the desk. Note that the Storage Side will butt up against the Front piece but will not extend all the way to the back of the desk.
Once youve attached the Storage Side, attach the Apron using pocket screws into the Sides and Top and from the Storage Side into the Apron. The Storage Bottom and Storage Side have the same depth, use the Storage Bottom as a guide on the opposite side of the Storage Side to press the Apron against so you screw it in straight.
Remember, the Apron will not sit flush with the back of the desk. Heres a rear view.
Step 5
Attach the Storage Bottom using 1-1/4" pocket holes as shown. If youre installing the optional leveler feet do so now.
The main part of the desk is now complete.
Step 6
Cut out the components for the Shelf. These include the Shelf, 2 Shelf Sides, Paper Tray and Tray Supports. Apply veneer edging all the way around the Shelf, on 3 edges of the Papery Try (not the edge touching the side), on the 2 short edges of each Side and on the 2 long edges of each of the Tray Supports.
Begin shelf assembly by attaching the two Shelf Sides to the Shelf Top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws as shown.
Step 7
Drill 1 pocket hole in each of the tray supports to attach it to the top. The pocket holes should be on the inside of the support. Use the Paper Tray butted up against the side where youd like to install as a guide to determine how far away the Supports should be. The tray supports should be evenly spaced 1.5" apart with the two end pieces flush with the edges of the Shelf Top.
Step 8
Now attach the paper tray at the midpoint of the sides and supports to split the space evenly using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws as shown. 3 into the Shelf Side and 1 into each Tray Support.
Step 9
To prevent the shelf from sliding around on the desk but still be able to easily remove the shelf at a later point if desired well be using 2 shelf pins to anchor the shelf to the desk.
Begin by placing the shelf on top of the desk and aligning it flush with the sides and the back of the desk top. Using a pencil, mark a vertical like halfway into the shelf side extending down into the side of the desk top as shown.
Use a square to transfer the marking onto the desk top as well as the bottom of the shelf side. Measure in 3/8" on that line and mark it. Using the shelf pin drill bit drill a hole into the top of the desk as well as the bottom of the shelf side. Do this on both ends for a total of 4 holes, 1 in each shelf side bottom, and two on the desk top.
Take your time and be very careful with these measurements so they line up properly. Once you have all 4 holes drilled, fine tune them by slightly deepening or widening the holes in the Shelf Sides. Finally insert a shelf pin in each hole on the Desk Top and slide the Shelf onto them.
Step 10
Your desk is now complete and is ready to be finished with either primer/paint or stain/polyurethane or a combination of the two. It will be easier to finish some sections if you take the desk apart first. Just follow these directions backwards to take everything apart. Then follow the directions on how to put all the pieces together again.
Monday, February 10, 2014
the manchester chamber of commerce railngs
one of the modified greek key end elements
A Way to Take the Screw Out of Purchasing a Vintage Screwdriver Online
First, let me apologize for the title as this post has nothing to do with screwdrivers. It is meant to touch on the topic of protecting yourself when purchasing vintage tools online, so while no screwdrivers are discussed here, the contents could be applied when and if you ever purchase one. Using the term "Screwdriver", however, allowed me, I hope, to be blunt, without being rude.
Collecting vintage tools has become a serious and enjoyable hobby for me. Spending time seeking out and purchasing these tools is a real blast. Paying for those purchases, not so much, but when you finally get them in your greedy little hands, the buzz returns in multiples. The two most enjoyable parts of the equation are the researching of the tool once I find one I want to purchase, and of course, the end result - owning it and being able to use it, or simply just look at it.
When I first started down this collection road, I got truly taken on the purchase of two saws. One was a Disston D-12 that turned out to be so bent, it is better suited for cutting circles than anything else. The other is an Atkins Rip that had been sharpened so many times it looks more like a keyhole saw, than a rip saw. In my defense for these two stupid moves, I will state that they were my first two purchases of vintage tools on eBay. When I made them, I had no idea what I was doing.
While it took getting taken twice, no-one had to hit me across the head with a two-by-four the third time. I swung into research mode, learned to study the images provided in these listings and worked to take the emotions out of these purchases. Since then, I have probably made thirty-odd more purchases, and I am quite satisfied with each one. Some were true deals, some were true steals and some were true must-haves at any price, which I acknowledged before I hit the submit button.
While educating myself to some extent has protected me so far from being taken again, the questionable practices of some sellers on the internet still remain; ready to take advantage of the newbies. One such listing on eBay has the following, short description; "Nice Stanley chisel, no cracked handle here, also a nice tip as well!! Check out my other listings!!!”
Have a look at the image that accompanied this description. It does show that the description is true; it does have a nice handle and the end isnt too bad. It also shows, to me at least, that everything in between is nothing but junk. Do my eyes deceive me, or is this thing seriously bent? It also might have been heated at some time, maybe to try and straighten it out, as there is something seriously wrong going on just above that "nice" tip?
Collecting vintage tools has become a serious and enjoyable hobby for me. Spending time seeking out and purchasing these tools is a real blast. Paying for those purchases, not so much, but when you finally get them in your greedy little hands, the buzz returns in multiples. The two most enjoyable parts of the equation are the researching of the tool once I find one I want to purchase, and of course, the end result - owning it and being able to use it, or simply just look at it.
When I first started down this collection road, I got truly taken on the purchase of two saws. One was a Disston D-12 that turned out to be so bent, it is better suited for cutting circles than anything else. The other is an Atkins Rip that had been sharpened so many times it looks more like a keyhole saw, than a rip saw. In my defense for these two stupid moves, I will state that they were my first two purchases of vintage tools on eBay. When I made them, I had no idea what I was doing.
While it took getting taken twice, no-one had to hit me across the head with a two-by-four the third time. I swung into research mode, learned to study the images provided in these listings and worked to take the emotions out of these purchases. Since then, I have probably made thirty-odd more purchases, and I am quite satisfied with each one. Some were true deals, some were true steals and some were true must-haves at any price, which I acknowledged before I hit the submit button.
While educating myself to some extent has protected me so far from being taken again, the questionable practices of some sellers on the internet still remain; ready to take advantage of the newbies. One such listing on eBay has the following, short description; "Nice Stanley chisel, no cracked handle here, also a nice tip as well!! Check out my other listings!!!”
Have a look at the image that accompanied this description. It does show that the description is true; it does have a nice handle and the end isnt too bad. It also shows, to me at least, that everything in between is nothing but junk. Do my eyes deceive me, or is this thing seriously bent? It also might have been heated at some time, maybe to try and straighten it out, as there is something seriously wrong going on just above that "nice" tip?
One of the ways you can protect yourself from unscrupulous sellers is to take full advantage of the images they provide. An example of this is how I handled the purchase this week of a Stanley No. 72 Chamfer Plane that I ended up buying for, hopefully, a very reasonable price. The jury is still out on whether I did well with it or not as I am currently awaiting its arrival, but I did do all I could to ensure I would be happy with the deal.
I must acknowledge that this particular purchase is the first one I have made that breaks one of my own rules; “never buy a tool I wouldn’t use”, as I fully expect never to put this tool to wood. My reasoning behind this purchase is purely aesthetic; I fell in love with this tool the moment I first laid eyes on one as I believe it has exceptional proportions and is a very clever design. As a result, I just had to have one. Having watched for one at a reasonable price for quite some time now, I can tell you that discovering one for under their normal price range of $375 to $400 is next to impossible. When this one came up on eBay, the bids were far below what was expected, and to me, this is a huge warning sign. If the collectors on eBay are not willing to open their wallets for a known collectable tool, something is not right with it. The images that the seller provided were adequate, but they were your typical snapshot. They showed signs that the seller was trying to show the tool honestly as he had placed the tool against a plain background and didn’t distort the angles. Because of the exposure, however, seeing a true likeness of the tool wasn’t possible. I grabbed a capture of the image as you can no longer save images off of eBay, with the results of that capture shown below.
I must acknowledge that this particular purchase is the first one I have made that breaks one of my own rules; “never buy a tool I wouldn’t use”, as I fully expect never to put this tool to wood. My reasoning behind this purchase is purely aesthetic; I fell in love with this tool the moment I first laid eyes on one as I believe it has exceptional proportions and is a very clever design. As a result, I just had to have one. Having watched for one at a reasonable price for quite some time now, I can tell you that discovering one for under their normal price range of $375 to $400 is next to impossible. When this one came up on eBay, the bids were far below what was expected, and to me, this is a huge warning sign. If the collectors on eBay are not willing to open their wallets for a known collectable tool, something is not right with it. The images that the seller provided were adequate, but they were your typical snapshot. They showed signs that the seller was trying to show the tool honestly as he had placed the tool against a plain background and didn’t distort the angles. Because of the exposure, however, seeing a true likeness of the tool wasn’t possible. I grabbed a capture of the image as you can no longer save images off of eBay, with the results of that capture shown below.
I brought the file into Photoshop and after a little manipulation, I felt I had a good rendition of the plane. For those of you that know Photoshop, I added a Curves Adjustment Layer set using three Control Points and applied an Unsharpen Mask. Comparing the image to a known and trusted one, I fully realized that it wasnt in the pristine condition that true collectors like, as well as it being an example of a later production model, which is probably the reasons why the price was below average. How a good collector sorts the good from the not so good, I have no idea. Do they all know Photoshop like I do? The image below is a result of these manipulations.
Unlike the seller for the chisel shown above, this seller was more honest in his description, even though his statement that about 85% of the japanning remained might be a little overstated, as the manipulated image showed otherwise. This is probably not intentional, as I suspect that the value he came up with was based on not knowing which parts of this particular plane were originally japanned when it came from the factory as the No. 72 comes with a lot more of that coating than other Stanley planes. The point here, though, is that having done the research and investigated the images offered as best as I could, I had all the information I needed to make a rational choice whether to purchase the plane or not. As I really wanted an example of this one, but knew it would be one that would end up being a dust collector, I placed a value on it which turned out to be enough to be successful. I ended up purchasing the plane for what I consider to be a reasonable price of $250. I feel it was a fair price for a Stanley No. 72 in this condition and one that I feel could be realized if I choose to sell it later on.
Now that I have it, I have to figure out what to do with it. It is not the cleanest tool I have ever purchased, nor the worst, for that matter. I do, however, want to clean it, and this is where conflict rears its ugly head. If you go online and check out the articles regarding cleaning a vintage tool, most will tell you not to touch it, other than a wipe down with mineral spirits or the like. This category of collecting is like any other category; the more it is in original condition, the more it is worth. I have this dilemma with antique furniture as well, and from my perspective, it boils down to what you are willing to live with. I own a beautiful sideboard from the Art Deco period that is made with serious quality and craftsmanship, built from solid mahogany. When I bought it years ago, for a song I might add, it had some stains and markings on its top left by some klutz who owned it before me. I do not care how magical the piece, if it looks like it shouldn’t, I’m not going to live with it, so I stripped and refinished it in a New York minute. Actually, I did this twice as I unknowingly stained it darker than I should have the first time, and realizing my mistake, did it again. Is this sideboard not worth as much now as it could be? Absolutely. Am I happier with it now than I would be if I had left it alone? Absolutely.
Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I have a feeling that the moment I receive this plane, it is going to be dunked in pot of Evapo-Rust that Lee Valley sells just for this purpose.
Peace,
Mitchell
Now that I have it, I have to figure out what to do with it. It is not the cleanest tool I have ever purchased, nor the worst, for that matter. I do, however, want to clean it, and this is where conflict rears its ugly head. If you go online and check out the articles regarding cleaning a vintage tool, most will tell you not to touch it, other than a wipe down with mineral spirits or the like. This category of collecting is like any other category; the more it is in original condition, the more it is worth. I have this dilemma with antique furniture as well, and from my perspective, it boils down to what you are willing to live with. I own a beautiful sideboard from the Art Deco period that is made with serious quality and craftsmanship, built from solid mahogany. When I bought it years ago, for a song I might add, it had some stains and markings on its top left by some klutz who owned it before me. I do not care how magical the piece, if it looks like it shouldn’t, I’m not going to live with it, so I stripped and refinished it in a New York minute. Actually, I did this twice as I unknowingly stained it darker than I should have the first time, and realizing my mistake, did it again. Is this sideboard not worth as much now as it could be? Absolutely. Am I happier with it now than I would be if I had left it alone? Absolutely.
Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I have a feeling that the moment I receive this plane, it is going to be dunked in pot of Evapo-Rust that Lee Valley sells just for this purpose.
Peace,
Mitchell
Tuesday, February 4, 2014
Out of commission for a while
Well, with the changing of Summer into Fall, and the end of boating season, I usually resume my woodworking projects. I was getting geared up to FINALLY build some cabinets/storage under my workbench. I have the idea in my head and was thinking I would start on it this weekend. Well, Im going to have to put that on the back burner for a few weeks at least; I was playing some basketball on Tuesday night and blew out my knee. The initial diagnosis is a torn acl and cartilage; MRI will tell the full extent of the damage, but it is looking like acl replacement surgery in the next couple of weeks. Im a pretty active, and independent, person so being laid up in a full leg brace and crutches is killing me!
On another woodworking note, I was able to do some "new to me" woodworking recently; pen turning. This is one of the coolest things ever...I love it! I got a flier in the mail from Penn State Industries about their starter kit and figured "why not give it a try". So I ordered this kit: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK073SPECX.html
It arrived a few days later and is chock full of great stuff. I have only turned two pens, but I think they came out great. I will try and get some pictures up in the next couple of days. My wife took one of the, which is actually my favorite one, so when she gets back Im going to snap a couple pictures and get them up. I will probably write a bit of a review about the kit as well so stay tuned for that.
So, even with the busted up knee, Im hoping that I can still turn some pens and pencils, maybe get started on some Christmas presents this way. Happy woodworking and STAY SAFE!!
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On another woodworking note, I was able to do some "new to me" woodworking recently; pen turning. This is one of the coolest things ever...I love it! I got a flier in the mail from Penn State Industries about their starter kit and figured "why not give it a try". So I ordered this kit: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK073SPECX.html
It arrived a few days later and is chock full of great stuff. I have only turned two pens, but I think they came out great. I will try and get some pictures up in the next couple of days. My wife took one of the, which is actually my favorite one, so when she gets back Im going to snap a couple pictures and get them up. I will probably write a bit of a review about the kit as well so stay tuned for that.
So, even with the busted up knee, Im hoping that I can still turn some pens and pencils, maybe get started on some Christmas presents this way. Happy woodworking and STAY SAFE!!
Saturday, January 25, 2014
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